Nicaragua

Granada, Nicaragua’s photogenic colonial city, founded 1524 and burned by Henry Morgan in 1665. Practical guide to the cathedral, La Merced bell tower, Calle La Calzada, the 365 islets of Lake Nicaragua, the Mombacho cloud forest hike, the Masaya lava lake at night, the Pueblos Blancos artisan loop, where to stay across every budget tier, where to eat (including the deaf-staffed nonprofit Café de las Sonrisas), and how to cross from Costa Rica or Honduras. Prices in córdobas, opinions where they matter.

Nicaragua is the Central America country quietly avoided by Western travellers since the 2018 protests, but tourist infrastructure works, locals are warm, and the value-for-money against Costa Rica is dramatic. Granada and Leon are two of the prettiest colonial cities in the region. Ometepe is twin-volcano island in a freshwater lake. Volcano boarding on Cerro Negro is a thing only this country offers. Honest about the politics, practical on the rest. All prices in cordobas.