El Salvador went from one of the world’s most dangerous countries to a Level 1 travel advisory in three years. The full picture: world-class surf at Punta Roca and El Sunzal, the turquoise crater lake at Volcán Santa Ana, the painted mural towns of the Ruta de las Flores, the Mayan farming village at Joya de Cerén, the State of Exception you should understand before going, and a practical 7 to 10 day itinerary that links them all.